Diamond information center

Some information & pictures courtesy of the Gemological Institute of America, the American Gem Society and the American Gem Trade Association

APRIL BIRTHSTONE
The word diamond comes from the Greek word - adamas, meaning the unconquerable. The Greeks also believed that the light from the center of a diamond was the eternal flame of love. Diamonds are the hardest natural mineral on earth. Their formation took place billions of years ago miles below the earth's surface. Diamonds are pushed closer to the surface of the earth during volcanic eruptions. Here they can be more easily mined. Of all the diamonds mined approximately eighty percent are used commercially in industrial equipment. Only about twenty percent of all diamonds mined make it into the category of  "gemstone quality". Diamonds are carefully studied before cutting and polishing to ensure that the full beauty of the stone is released. Even still, a diamond could loose as much as 50% of its size in the process. During the 15th century, European royalty began the custom of presenting their beloved with a diamond ring to represent their commitment and to celebrate their marriage. This ritual has expanded into almost all cultures over the years. A diamonds beauty is timeless. When selecting a stone remember that its value is based both on its beauty and its rarity. Diamonds are normally graded in four (4)  ways.   These methods are most commonly known as the "Four C's".

CUT

	The brilliant sparkle of a diamond comes from the cutting and polishing of the stone. The angles of the cuts create prisms and reflective surfaces.  It is the angles that are the first and most important part in producing a work of beauty from a raw diamond. To explain this without going into all the technical aspects...  if the proportions are within a certain percentage the diamond produces more light.  This light can be both reflective and refractive in nature producing the brilliant sparkle and beautiful colors. When the proportions are too shallow the light tends to pass through the diamond and escape out the bottom without really being noticed. A shallow cut is most noticeable as having almost a fish eye look to its reflections when viewed from the top.   Also if the diamond is cut too deep the reflection and refraction qualities are again lost.  The closer a diamond is cut to ideal proportions the greater the brilliance. Even if a diamond has good color and good clarity its value could suffer if it has a poorly proportioned cut.

COLOR

The color of a diamond also has an effect on the price. Diamonds may be graded for their color using different scales but the most common methods used are standards set by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Gem Society (AGS). As with any precious object, the more rare the greater the value. As you'll recall from the first part of this section, only about 20% of all diamonds mined make it into the category of  being "gemstone quality". The closer a diamond is to being colorless, the more rare it is.

CLARITY

Practically all diamonds have some small imperfections called Inclusions. Before a diamond is cut, it is studied to determine where the inclusions are.  A tremendous amount of time is spent in studying each and every stone.

CARAT WEIGHT

The term "Carat" is believed to have come from the seed ( kuara ) of the African Coraltree or from ( Greek - keration ) the kernel of the Carob bean.  This unit of measurement is used in America , as well as Europe, and is actually a metric carat which is equivalent to 200 mg or 0.2g. Diamonds are carefully studied before cutting and polishing to ensure that the full beauty of the stone is released. Even still, a diamond could lose as much as 50% of its size in the process. Careful consideration is taken when mapping the areas of a stone that will be cut away. Questions about the shape the stone should be cut into also come into play. As an example any given stone might not be suited for a round brilliant cut with 58 facets. It might be possible that the shape and internal characteristics could produce a more valuable stone if it were cut into a marquise, princess or trillion cut. The larger the diamond the more rare it is. The largest rough diamond ever found weighed in at 3106 carats. It was cut into 105 stones with the largest one being the Cullinan I. (or Star of Africa) which weighs in at  530.20 carats.

RUBIES

JULY BIRTHSTONE
The ruby is named for its red color from the latin word ( rubens ). The respect and appreciation for rubies has always transcended all geographical boundaries and social class. Ruby has acquired special attributes from its admirers over the centuries. It has been regarded as a symbol of freedom, charity, dignity and divine power. Fine, large rubies may be worth more than diamonds of comparable size.

Ruby and sapphire are two varieties of the mineral corundum. Their exceptional hardness is  surpassed only by diamonds, although only 1/140 as hard, it is seven times as hard as topaz. Red corundum is called ruby, and all other colors are called sapphire. The different geographical sources of ruby are known for characteristic colors and qualities, although they all produce a variety of gem material. Burma is famous for producing the greatest amount of top quality ruby - a fine clear, deep red. Thailand is known for dark red to brownish - red material. Burma is the most important source of ruby today. Some rubies display a luminous star when viewed in the right light. This is caused by the orientation of intersecting needles within the stone. The light reflecting off them forms a star. Stars may be seen on certain translucent stones that have been cut in a dome shape.

A synthetic ruby is nearly identical to the natural gem in physical appearance, chemical composition and optical properties and can easily be confused with genuine ruby by an untrained eye. Only a trained gemologist can tell the difference by locating telltale inclusions in the stone. Inclusions are common in real stones. They are not indicative of lower quality, but show the difference between a natural and a synthetic stone.

Ruby's dramatic color and regal heritage make it the choice of the most discriminating jewelry lovers. A few rubies have distinguished themselves because of their size or extraordinary beauty and are being guarded for posterity. The Louvre in Paris houses the Anne of Brittany Ruby, a 105-carat polished but irregular gem. The British Museum of Natural History is the home of  Edwardes Ruby at 167-carat weight. The Smithsonian displays the 137-carat Rosser Reeves Ruby. Rubies make elegant rings and pendants. Small rubies are popular for use in anniversary rings to wear alone or in the company of diamonds. Rubies are stunning against a backdrop of white, black, royal blue or emerald green. Since subtle differences in quality can make large differences in beauty (and price), it is important to select your jewelry from a professional who can guide you honestly and ethically in your purchase.

SAPPHIRES

SEPTEMBER BIRTHSTONE
The name sapphire is from the Greek word for blue. Sapphire has always been a highly treasured stone. In ancient times, it was thought that the heavens crystallized to form a huge sapphire upon which the earth rested. The sapphire comes from the same mineral as rubies. They are both of the corundum mineral family.

Its hardness is the same as that of the ruby, surpassed only by diamonds. Unlike the ruby, the Sapphire comes in many colors, The most famous and valuable of which is a rich intense blue. Still, there are other shades that are as soothing and sensuous, a blue like liquid blue, evening sky blue, cornflower blue. There are also many other colors like, the hot and soft pinks, oranges, greens, purples, golds, yellows and whites. Sapphires are sometimes heat treated. By firing at temperatures of about 1700-1800 degrees C, some cloudy sapphires, non distinct in color, can change to a bright blue permanent color.

Synthetic sapphires, like synthetic rubies, are nearly identical to the natural gem in physical appearance, chemical composition and optical properties and can easily be confused with a genuine stone. Only a trained gemologist can tell the difference by locating telltale inclusions in the stone. Inclusions are common in real stones. They are not indicative of lower quality, but show the difference between a natural and a synthetic stone.

Sapphire symbolizes sincerity, faithfulness, beauty and wealth. Large sapphires are rare. Some of the most famous are the "Star of India" (a 53 carat cut star sapphire) which is in the American Museum of Natural History, the "Midnight Star" (a black star sapphire at 116 carat), the "Star of Asia" (a 330 carat star sapphire). Some of the sources for sapphires are Myanmar and Kashmir, where sapphire was discovered in 1881 when a land slide in the Himalayas uncovered beautiful blue pebbles. Most fine sapphires come from Sri Lanka, Thailand and Australia.

EMERALD

MAY BIRTHSTONE
The term Emerald derives from a Greek word (smaragdos) meaning "green stone". Its green color is incomparable, and is therefore called "emerald green". The rich green shades remind many admirers of the regeneration of life in the spring. Emeralds belong to the Beryl group of minerals and are formed by heat in rising magma and metamorphism.

Most emeralds are one of three shades, Emerald Green, Green and Yellowish Green. Its color is very stable against light and heat, and only alters when subjected to temperatures of between 1292 - 1472 degrees F. A dark green is usually the desired color and only the finest stones are transparent.

Most real emeralds are clouded with inclusions because perfection in emeralds, as in all things, is among the most rare of nature's treasures. Synthetic emeralds are usually very transparent and have no real inclusions even when viewed with magnification. Some people say that they like the look of a created stone over a real one because of how clear it is.

Any emerald is rare because of the extremely exceptional conditions in which emeralds are formed. The beautiful green hues symbolize rebirth and life abundant. The larger the stone and the more vivid the green, the more valuable the emerald. Emeralds are well liked and there is usually a very wide selection of jewelry with emerald stones.

GARNET

JANUARY BIRTHSTONE
The name garnet probably came from Latin (granatum) meaning pomegranate. The red colors of many garnets appear very much like the seeds of the pomegranate. When you mention garnet, most people think of small dark red gemstones, even though this is only one of the colors of  garnets. The garnet group of stones actually consist of differently colored minerals with similar crystal structure and related chemical compounds.

Garnets are available in every color but blue. Dark reds, tangerine orange, vivid lime green, soft bluish pink, garnet is all of these colors and more. There are garnets that change color in different light, translucent green garnets that look like jade, garnets with stars, garnets that have been mined for thousands of years and garnets that were just discovered in the last decade.

One of the most popular is the rhodolite garnet, which ranges from pink to purplish red in color and is mined in Africa, India, and Sri Lanka. Many beautiful jewelry pieces have been set with garnet. Earrings set with garnet are very popular and beautiful to wear.

AMETHYSTS

FEBRUARY BIRTHSTONE
Amethyst is the most highly - prized stone of the quartz group. The word amethyst is Greek for "not drunken". In ancient Greece it was worn as an amulet to guard against drunkenness.

The color of amethysts can range from a  pale lilac shade up through violet and into a pale red violet. Other colors are sometimes achieved through heat treatment. They vary from yellow, red-brown, green, or colorless. The color changes occur between about 878 - 1382 degrees F and normally the original color can be restored through X-ray radiation.

The wonderful violet glow of the amethyst is very penetrating yet soothing at the same time. It is a very beautiful stone when set in jewelry and is well complimented when accompanied with diamonds.

AQUAMARINES

MARCH BIRTHSTONE
Aquamarine is Latin for "water of the sea" and was so named because of its color. It is known as the "gem of the sea". Many legends surround aquamarine such as it is the treasure of mermaids, has the power to keep sailors safe at sea, and that it has a soothing influence on married couples.

Its color ranges from a pale blue-green, pale blue, and up to a medium blue and is usually transparent to opaque. Heating is sometimes used to improve the color which is a permanent change. The darker the blue, even though it doesn't get much darker than medium blue, the more highly valued it is. Care must be taken when making jewelry because too much heat will lead to discoloration.

Aquamarine is not as hard as some of the more precious stones like sapphire, ruby and diamond. It is about the same hardness as emeralds and care should be taken to avoid hard impacts. Even still, aquamarine is a very wonderful stone. Its beauty is admired around the world, especially by those born in March.

PERIDOT

AUGUST BIRTHSTONE
The name "peridot", derives from Greek, even though its meaning is uncertain. The commonly used name in mineralogy for this stone is "olivine" due to its olive-green color. The name chrysolite (Greek for gold stone) was formerly used for this stone along with other stones of similar color.

Ranging in color from yellowish green to olive green, this volcanic gem is readily available in most sizes and a variety of shapes. Today, much of the peridot is mined by Native Americans in Arizona on the San Carlos Reservation. In 1993 however, a deposit was found in the mountains of Pakistan. The find has changed today's market due to the large sizes (ranging from about 5 carats to as much as 50 carats) in respectable quantities and top qualities.

The month of August is proud to have peridot for its birthstone. This enchantingly beautiful stone is almost hypnotic with its luster.

OPAL

OCTOBER BIRTHSTONE
Opal's name is derived from an Indian word for "stone". Their opalescence, a rainbow like iridescence (which shows best in round or cabochon ) changes when viewed from different angles. Opal always contains water (between 3 - 30 %) and care should be taken to keep this intriguing stone in proper condition.

By nature, opals have many colors within each and every stone. Therefore the color that any given stone is referred to is that which is its main base. White opal is a light basic color with multiple color play. Black precious opal may have dark gray, dark blue, dark green, and gray-black basic color with deep black being an exception. Black opals are much more rare than white opals.

Opal is an appropriate stone for the month of October. Its fragile and beautiful colors are like that of the leaves on a tree during their delicate state in fall. In doublets, the stone is backed with compounds (like iron stone, common opal, or glass) which improve the strength of the stone and can even enhance the appearance. In triplets, the opal is further protected by a capping of clear quartz or plastic.

CITRINE

NOVEMBER BIRTHSTONE
Citrine was named for its lemon yellow color. Natural citrines are rare and most citrines are heat treated amethysts or smoky quartz.

Almost all heat-treated citrines have a red tint while natural ones are usually more pale yellow. The enhancement method is permanent and will last for the life of the gemstone. Apart from being available in yellow tones, citrine also comes in shades of orange to brown. The darker orange colors of citrine are generally the most valued types of citrine.

Artifacts from ancient cultures the world over attest to citrines place in our collective cultural heritage. They have been treasured possessions of emperors, kings and queens through recorded history. Citrine is considered a modern alternative to yellow topaz as the birthstone for November.

BLUE TOPAZ

DECEMBER BIRTHSTONE
Nature rarely produces topaz in the blue variety. Mankind has discovered a two step method to turn pale yellow  to brownish topaz. The raw stone is irradiated to brown and then heated to a rich sky blue. The enhancement process is permanent.
Blue topaz is a modern alternative to turquoise or zircon.

TANZANITE

In 1967, the world gemstone market  was suddenly and profoundly changed with the discovery of tanzanite. The stone was named for the country it was found in, Tanzania. It is mined at the foot of the great Mount Kilamanjaro. This fascinating stone is fast becoming one of the most popular of recent times.

The stone's color, in its original state, is an orange-brown and is heated to permanently change the color to an exquisite combination of violet and blue hues. This stone is breathtaking in direct sunlight. It has to be the loveliest of gems discovered in modern times.

CULTURED PEARLS
JUNE BIRTHSTONE
A cultured pearl forms when an irritant such as a mother-of-pearl bead is inserted by the pearl farmer into an oyster. The layering of the fluid secreted by the host oyster to cover the irritant and to protect itself is what determines the beauty of the cultured pearl. The shininess, smoothness and color of the protective nacre determine the pearl's beauty. Because pearl harvests are affected by growing conditions, the beauty and cost of available cultured pearls also vary from harvest to harvest.

LUSTER
As you compare strands of cultured pearls, you'll notice that some of the pearls offer a crisp reflection of the overhead lights while others do not. The better the reflection, the better the luster. Luster is what people see in quality cultured pearls when they notice them from across the room.

BLEMISHES
Small blemishes range from those which are barely visible when viewed at 6" - 8" to those which are visible to the eye at arm's distance. Blemishes significantly affect the value of the cultured pearl.

COLOR
You may have heard that the "best color" for pearls is white or pink body color. However, the best color for you to wear is the color that complements your skin tone and eyes, and that you feel happy with. Make your cultured pearl purchase only after laying the strand against the back of your hand to determine how the color looks to you. When you find the color that looks good on your skin, try the strand on. Wearing it will make you feel glowing and alive. Cultured pearl colors include white, pink, cream, silver, gray, and black among others.

SHAPE
The shape of the cultured pearls you choose also affects the price. A premium is paid for perfectly round cultured pearls. Slightly out-of-round are also beautiful as are the exciting free-form baroque pearls, semi-baroque, drop shapes, or ovals.

SIZE
Larger pearls are much more valuable than smaller pearls. The fact that larger pearls are harder to come by and harder to match for quality considerations make them more desirable. Pearl size is expressed in millimeters.
 
 

Keeping your jewelry clean is easy and it's free at Masseys Jewelers

Diamonds and grease are like magnets. In fact, grease is sometimes used in the harvesting of diamonds. Of course, grease and dirt attract each other as you can see in the picture on the left. We are always happy to keep your diamonds sparkling. We can also inspect the setting to help you avoid losing your investment. The brilliance of your diamonds are appreciated best when they are clean. Notice how much more light it gives off!